Enigne up-keep

[ZpSand]

I am thinkin about getting a 3rd gen RX-7, and i was wonder how you keep the 13b rotory engine running...i've heard they can be unreliable

[Shaggy]

I have had my 3rd Gen '94 for a few years now...and I hvaen't had any problems. Just keep up with the oil changes and tune ups over the years...and it should be fine.

[AusTexRex]

I am thinkin about getting a 3rd gen RX-7, and i was wonder how you keep the 13b rotory engine running...i've heard they can be unreliable

Those are just rumors because a lot of people didn't know how to care for a rotary engine, blew them, then bashed the engine for it.
Change your oil frequently and monitor it's level as oil is part of the combustion process. In the past using Synthetic oils would destroy a rotary engine as they were not as refined as they are now. Supposedly they work fine now, but I still use straight oil myself.
Aside from that take it out at least once a month and blast the rpm hell out of it (don't redline though) and get it revved up, this'll blow a lot of the crap out of the engine. If you're still having problems it's most likely a carbon buildup (the reason you should only use 92+ octane) and there are ways to clean that without taking the engine apart.
Summary: They're reliable as hell, pistonheads are just scared of a new engine. They did the same thing to the boxer 4 (WRX engine).

[ZpSand]

thanks

[2ROTORMOTOR]

yea thats just a rumor but I got to admit that they do require alot of attention... also the previous owner(s) have alot to do with the condition in which you car is right now.. If they beat the crap out of it or didnt do the required maintanence im almost certain the engine is in its last moments of its life... remember to check the oil injection as that is what keeps the apex seals alive... after 10 or 11 years of use they tend to get clogged up.. check them out..

[Hollywood]

your going to be buying a used FD, so plan for the worst. make sure you are prepared to make the repairs.

[black rocket]

First thing you do is to ck for compression. If seal is "done for" you're looking into rebuild it yourself or buy another one.

Thing about rex is that electrical is much to be desired and ck for harness for brittleness and be sure to ck the inside of oil cap. By doing so you can generalize what's going on i.e., coolant seeping into oil, etc.

Rotary is one great engine...if you take care of them 8)

[2ROTORMOTOR]

good one I forggot to mention a compression test...

[damnitsfrancis]

i have a question, does it cost a lot of money to get parts and maintain a rotary? some guy told me its hard to find parts or something but i want a second opinion :]

[Hollywood]

in the past few months I have spent 7K on my Rx7, but parts are easy to find, just call Rich at gotham racing, they ship all over the world, and know their stuff

[black rocket]

It's all depends on what you do to your rex. IMO 2nd gen stuff is harder to come by but, FD parts are easier.

If you rebuild your motor yorself it's gonna cost you about $300.00 and buying one will be about $1,000.

I don't see rex as a money pit, though.

It start to getting pricy when you begin modding to your liking just like any other motors out there.

[Hollywood]

I dont know that you can rebuild a blown motor for $300. when a motor blows, you loose at least 1 apex seal, and at least 1 housing. the housing alone is at least $300. not to mention all the seals and gaskets you would have to replace, just to put the motor back together.
you can buy a used JDM motor for about $800, thats probably the cheapest way you could go.

[2ROTORMOTOR]

try to find a 13brew engine for 800.... turboII's are hardly found for 800... I've rebuilt plenty of engines using same housing it came with.. turbo engines are a different story as when an apex seal goes there is considerable more compression than a n/a motor, but it is still possible to not damage your housings..

[Hollywood]

well I dont count NA motors...lol
you can get all JDM motors real cheap all you have to do is go to an auction. companies that import motors hold auctions here in the state, open to the general public. I use to be with cartune texas, and we would get 3 SR20det clips for a grand. they do these auctions once a month or so, on the west coast, they acualy post adds in auction papers

[PrincipleOfEvil]

But obviously the TT FD engines don't last as long as the n/a FD engines right?

[Hollywood]

there is no N/A FD engine

[PrincipleOfEvil]

there is no N/A FD engine

Non turbo 3g RX7's. Those are N/A.

[AusTexRex]

There are no non-turbo 3g's. None in the US at least.

[Hollywood]

would be cool to have a N/A bridge ported FD

[AusTexRex]

lol. If there were any N/A FD motors I'd love to buy one, put some spacers in it and put wide rotors in it. Bridge port, then probably slap a S/C on it.

[2ROTORMOTOR]

n/a fd engines????

[Johnny]

I am thinkin about getting a 3rd gen RX-7, and i was wonder how you keep the 13b rotory engine running...i've heard they can be unreliable

Those are just rumors because a lot of people didn't know how to care for a rotary engine, blew them, then bashed the engine for it.
Change your oil frequently and monitor it's level as oil is part of the combustion process. In the past using Synthetic oils would destroy a rotary engine as they were not as refined as they are now. Supposedly they work fine now, but I still use straight oil myself.
Aside from that take it out at least once a month and blast the rpm hell out of it (don't redline though) and get it revved up, this'll blow a lot of the crap out of the engine. If you're still having problems it's most likely a carbon buildup (the reason you should only use 92+ octane) and there are ways to clean that without taking the engine apart.
Summary: They're reliable as hell, pistonheads are just scared of a new engine. They did the same thing to the boxer 4 (WRX engine).

"newb question"
so when would be a good time to change the oil every ?? miles?

[AusTexRex]

I change mine every 1.5-2k miles depending on how the oil level is, the color of the oil, how hard i've been driving it, and if there is any gasoline fumes in it. Since oil in a rotary engine is mostly part of the combustion process it isn't ran through the engine and put back into the pan like it is on a piston, so the oil stays fresh for longer. BUT, oil can clump or when ran through the turbo get junk in it, and throwing that into a rotary engine can be bad. I prefer to change it every 1.5k miles and not worry about it. I only use real oil I don't mess with synthetic, there used to be plastic sand particle in it that were terrible for rotary engines. There aren't anymore... but I still prefer the real stuff.

[Johnny]

thanks always feels good to learn something new everyday:)

[Shaggy]

Hey Aus...how long do you wait before you change the oil if you don't go the 1.5 k miles...2 - 3 months?

[AusTexRex]

really depends on how I've been driving it lately, how hard and all of that. If it's been sitting I'll change it in 3-4 weeks. If I've been driving it regularly probably 1.5 months.

[black rocket]

lol. If there were any N/A FD motors I'd love to buy one, put some spacers in it and put wide rotors in it. Bridge port, then probably slap a S/C on it.

I'd rather slap on turbo than s/c.

[turboRX7]

ok can some1 clarify about using synthetic oil? is it good or bad for a turbo type II? if not whats a good oil weight?