ok. i need help..
 

on my 87 i have no headlight motors. so i have to lift them manually and it looks like a tard. one sits high. other dont. well i just acquired two motors. with relays and arms. and plugs. i believe they work. cuz i plugged both in to test. and the motor shifted. and stopped. didnt move far. believe i know. the first little basterd bit me. but when i go to turn on the lights. they did nothing.. any ideas. or preferably how to get headlight motor to work for dummies.. lol

So you are saying that when you hooked the motors up the moved showing that there was power to them, but when you hit the switch the did not raise? Could be a bad headlight switch.

now you made me sad... i still have one in the passenger side. but its not hooked to relay. i believe its missing. and then its also mising arm. i guess i can check pass side see if a difference

Ck the continuity between BA & RU @ cluster switch?

Expose your switch terminal behind hazard, front & rear wiper etc., harness is cluster switch RH. There will be 2 rows of connectors. Top, indicated by a space between 3 connectors totaling 6 connectors and 8 connectors @ the bottom row.

To ck for retractable headlight control circuitry place a neg to the 4th connector (ground) and connect hot to the one next to it. If that opens up the headlight cover.

To ck for the continuity use your ohmmeter and place it between bottom 5th connector and top 3rd connector.

If it doesn't have continuity, then ck for problems.

Even w/o arms you still can inspect whether motor is good or not by doing a contiunity ck.

how do i go about that rocket? my dads a mechanic but knows nothing bout rotarys lol. its why we call his friend. granted headlight motors arent really that sophisticated..... >.> but the one currently left in car is missing the relay or the little box that mounts to to body and wires run to then from

but when i tested the two i bought i was holding them in my hand. not touching car at all. could it maybe be that it need to touch car in order to ground and operate. or does that not matter

Yep, that's how DC works. Chassis carries neg and whatever you connect is hot :)

nice. ill have working headlights again!!!!!! now just need to adjust so they dont bind. cuz as of now i have to pull them up and have them set to catch so they stay up. lol

When you say you got bit, is it when you were cking the motor? And how did you ck them if you don't mind me asking.

Also, bear in mind that relays are there to protect your electrical system in a situation when instruments draw too many amps relays & fuses are to stop from frying the whole electrical system and isolate the damage to a minimal.