ok i have an 88 gtu and i can play with pontiac ws-6's and comaro Z28's. well its best if you dont have power steering cause once your car gets moving its not all that hard to steer and its less crap your car has to power. also check and see if he took out the a/c cause if he did then he just gave your car a little more hp not a whole lot. and dont make you car a drag car cause cops look for that crap. keep your car stock lookin and a mean street machine (Sleeper) here is my setup:
Intake/Exhaust
Stock Intake with K&N insert, RB Headers and Cat replacement pipe, apexi gt cat back exhaust.
Engine
SAFC ECU, Intake and Exhaust Street Port, wire open aux ports, all emissions removed, 720cc Secondary Fuel Injectors, Rotary Aviation rebuild kit (corner seals, side seals, apex seals, apex seal springs, and gaskets etc...), alluminum main drive double sheave pully, and alluminum under drive pulley
Transmission
Centerforce stage 2 clutch, RB Alluminum fly wheel with replaceable friction plate, and miata short shifter kit
Cooling
Griffin Alluminum radiator
Brakes
Power slot slotted rotors and powerslot semi metaic pads, stock calipers, braided stainless steal brake lines.
Suspension
Suspension Techniques fornt and rear anti swaybar, Tein 1.5 lowering springs/ Coils, KYB AGX adjustible shocks, Cusco Camber plates(front), OBX Camber Kit (rear), front and rear strut tower bar
Fuel
87 octane with TC-W3 premix (helps save and protect apex seals form carbon deposits)
Chassis
S&W 4 point roll cage (Stiffens chassis up to 30%)
The cage isnt a must but if you want a harness its your best bet instead of a harness bar. it costs about the same plus you get the benefit of stiffening your chassis more. also you will beed a new differential. i suggest you get a diff off of a gtu or t2. if you get the gtu diff you will have 4.10 final gears and limited slip. since you have the base you have a mainly open diff which means only one tire spins. see im set up for road course and i run a low 12 to mid 11 1/4 mile depending on the tires.
now here is the thing you can get a t2 and do the same but jump up to a bigger turbo with a higher psi and intercooler but then that would be way too much stress on the engine and then it would go kaboom and your out a shit load of money.
now i you can pull together 7500bucks i have a friend that specializes in rotary engines and he can build you a 20B (three rotor engine) putting out 700 Hp at the wheels.
with the setup i have im putting out around 200-225 hp at the wheels depending how i have my ecu set
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